How we make our custom jewelry
In our artisan jewelry workshop in Marteliè, we have been making jewelry by hand in Barcelona for 25 years. We work with 925 sterling silver, gold-plated sterling silver and gold, as required by the client.
Precious and semi-precious stones are also part of the elements we play with at Marteliè when designing a custom piece of jewelry. It all depends on the idea and needs of each client because, as it is a commission, each piece is unique.
Each custom-made jewel at Marteliè follows one of these four processes:
1
Idea + 3D design + Wax mold
The client contacts Marteliè and explains what they need. From that moment on, we start working on the idea with the client and create a 3D drawing.
The rendering or virtual recreation of the jewelry allows you to see what the piece will look like and make corrections to the design until the idea that the client has in their head is materialized.
Once the final design is achieved, we enter all its specifications into a high-resolution 3D printer specialized in jewelry. The printer produces a wax piece adjusted with millimetric precision to what the jeweler has drawn.
2
Idea + Metal piece
There are some pieces that we make directly in metal, without a previous 3D design. All the pieces in the Marteliè collection are made through this process.
The design determines the way the jewel is created. Sometimes we use a saw to shape the piece on a metal plate, which is known as silhouette carving. Other times we work on wire until we get the ideal shape. And on many occasions, we combine several techniques to achieve a certain effect on the jewel. For example, in the creation of the Lluna Marteliè earrings, silhouette carving is combined with wire and hammering.
The pieces made directly in metal have the artisanal touch of 100% handmade pieces.
3
Idea + Wax mold
On some occasions, and depending on the client’s idea, we choose to make the wax mold directly, without 3D printing.
In these cases we work the mold by hand. We use two types of wax, a hard one that we shape with a saw, file and sandpaper; and another soft one that allows us to play more with the surface to achieve the desired shape and details.
Once we have the wax mold, the same steps are followed as in jewelry made with a previous 3D design: microfusion, firing, casting and final finishing.
As it is an artisanal process, each piece of jewelry has its own personality.
4
Piece reproduction
We have quite a few clients who want to reproduce old family jewelry or make a copy of an earring they have lost and need the pair to wear them again.
In these cases, the client gives us the piece and we use it to make a rubber or silicone mold by vulcanization (pressure and temperature). The jewel is sealed inside and is released with a scalpel.
Once we have the empty mold, the process explained above is repeated: microfusion, firing, casting and final finishing.
Work done
Contact and Budget without obligation
Marteliè is an artisan jewelry store that makes custom jewelry in its workshop in Barcelona. Its pieces are created by artisans with 25 years of experience.